Taiwan: Top 12 Foods for Foodies!

Introduction

Traditional knife cut, stir-fried noodles - 北平半畝園 臺東 - No. 184, Zhongzheng Rd, Taitung City

Taiwanese food doesn’t need an introduction but at least it gives me another paragraph to express how much I love eating it. Writing a list of must-try Taiwanese dishes is as fun as it is difficult, because Taiwan manages to produce a diverse range of incredible food, making it almost impossible to choose favourites!

Taiwanese cuisine has strong links to traditional Chinese food, with many Chinese dishes being present but with regional modifications, including fantastic indigenous recipes. Japanese influences are also apparent, especially when walking the streets of the capital city Taipei, with the high number of Japanese cafes and restaurants. Food and drink forms an important part of Taiwanese culture, which makes travelling Taiwan all the more enjoyable. The number of street food markets, as well as other food & drink businesses, seem higher than most places I’ve ever been; there’s a demand for quality and quantity, and I’ve never been more trusting of the locals. This article is aimed at people who consider themselves ‘foodies’, featuring a fair amount of offal, unusual animal parts and, perhaps for a western palate, some challenging flavours. Let’s get that tummy rumbling!

Turkey/ pork rice

Top: Lu Rou Fan (braised pork over rice) - Simple, comforting, and very moreish.
Bottom: Turkey rice, tried and tested where it’s most famous: Chiayi County.

‘Chiayi Turkey Rice’ as it’s often called is said to have originated in Chiayi County, Southwest Taiwan. There are mixed reports as to how turkeys arrived in Taiwan; some say they were brought in by the US military, stationed in Taiwan after WWII. Others report it was Dutch colonists back in the 17th century. It’s certainly not common to find turkey meat in Asia.

The dish is fairly clean and simple. The lean turkey meat is shredded and placed on rice, with a sauce usually made from shallots, soy sauce, sugar, and turkey broth poured over the top. Garnished with crispy shallots and pickles, even the most food-fussy traveller will enjoy this.

Lu Rou Fan (Taiwanese braised pork over rice) is perhaps the most beloved Taiwanese dish on this list, alongside beef noodle soup. Lu Rou Fan was recommended to me more times than any other dish; naturally, I had to try a few examples. Pork belly is traditionally used, fatty and flavourful, along with mushrooms, shallots, rice wine, soy sauce, garlic and aromatic seasonings such as Chinese five spice. Simmered and reduced until the sauce is like a thick, glistening, gravy, a hard-boiled egg is often added. It might not appear the most vibrant bowl of food but a great one will have you gently placing your chopsticks back on the table and reaching for the biggest spoon you can find.

Gua Bao

The Taiwanese Hamburger 'Gua Bao’ looking every bit as good as it tastes.

Dubbed the Taiwanese Hamburger, the Gua Bao is a street snack you’ll likely be aware of. Queues of locals and tourists alike are common at famous stalls. I’m guilty of queueing for 30 minutes for this five-bite wonder and I’d do it again.

Gua Bao is a steamed bun, filled with fatty pork belly; although, you can sometimes choose meat styles and levels of fattiness. Stewed, pickled vegetables are added, with coriander, and the all important peanut powder - which is, essentially, crushed peanuts and sugar. Important to mention I have eaten Gua Baos I found too sweet. Balance is paramount for me and don’t get me wrong, I’m all for a little sweetness; however, one Gua Bao I tried was so sweet I chose not to finish it. They are delicious when the savoury flavours combine with the fragrant, sweet ones. You could always hedge your bets and eat one for dessert?

Scallion Pancake

Deep fried egg scallion pancake…
Possibly the best street snack on earth? - Yellow truck, No. 102號, Fuxing St, Hualien City

Scallion pancakes, Cong You Bing in Chinese, come in a few variations but none are as spectacular as the example pictured here. I’ve chosen to give this scallion pancake it’s own section, because it is quite possibly the best street snack I’ve ever eaten.

Served out of a yellow truck down a side street in Hualien City, it isn’t much more than a deep fried pancake, similar to an Indian puri, with two sauces, one of which is spicy, the other being a sweeter soy sauce, a deep fried egg yolk and some crispy shallots. I was apparently very lucky because I only waited two minutes for my order but I’ve heard there are queues of 45 minutes on busy days. The pancake is soft and light on the inside and beautifully crispy on the outside. The egg yolk explodes on impact and will likely squirt down your arm; it marries perfectly with the sauces, creating the most satisfying combination. It’s rich, flavourful, spicy, and texturally very interesting. I cannot think of a time street food has given me so much joy. Whatever it is you’re imagining, it’s better.

Fish Skin soup

Fish skin soup, pan fried milk fish, and garlic rice; one of the iconic breakfasts of Taiwan - A Xing Shi Mu Yu, No. 252號, Wenxian Rd, North District, Tainan City

Fish and seafood feature heavily in Taiwanese cooking, especially in coastal areas. I tried some fantastic fish soups and other fish dishes which were fresh and light, yet also concentrated and complex. How do they do it?

The breakfast set pictured here was the most memorable. Sitting by the roadside at 7.30am, sharing a table with elderly locals, I was helped by the food stall owner who effectively ordered for me. The pan-fried milkfish and garlic rice were very, very tasty but the star of the show was the fish skin soup: clear, pure, and subtly saline, with a little acidity and bite from the green onions, the tender fish falls apart, flaking into the delicate soup… I remember trying my hardest to eat slowly, savouring every mouthful. I would even go as far to say you should visit Tainan for this meal alone. The staff were lovely, the atmosphere was exactly what us travelling food enthusiasts look for, and the food was exceptional.

Eggs & Omelettes

Left: the best omelette I’ve ever eaten - Hsuhai Grandma's house No. 100-2號, Xuhai Rd, Mudan Township, Pingtung

Right: Omelette & stir-fried beef & vegetables, Hsinchu County.

I’m well aware the Taiwanese Breakfast section of this article also mentions eggs; however, eggs are prevalent in Taiwanese cooking and eaten in different ways.

I’m pleasantly surprised I’m saying this but the best omelette I’ve ever eaten was in Taiwan, and I’ve lived in France! Pictured on the left and cooked by a lovely lady at a homestay on Taiwan’s east coast, this cake-like omelette was thick and dense, reminiscent of a Spanish tortilla, perfectly seasoned, and wet on the inside. Alun jokes I like my eggs undercooked but I would argue that many people overcook their eggs - which might just be the same thing in different words!

Omelette styles vary, some being more thin and flat, often containing green onion, and eaten alongside meat dishes. There is of course the famous oyster omelette, slightly thicker in consistency, having been thickened using potato or tapioca starch, and served with a sauce made of ketchup, soy sauce, and miso paste; these are edible definitions of the words savoury and umami. I did eat an oyster omelette but I didn’t think much of it. I like oysters raw, with little adjustment. Try them, sure, but don’t kick yourself if you can’t squeeze one in.

Lastly, it’s important to mention the century egg. Shocking in its appearance and unappealing to many in the west, the century egg is often misunderstood. Using chicken or duck eggs, and a mixture of salt, ash, clay and rice husks, the eggs are preserved for several weeks to several months. The white of the egg becomes translucent, gelatinous and jelly-like, and the yolk turns a dark, greenish-grey colour and creamy in consistency (check out the tofu photo for reference). The flavour of a century egg, certainly the yolk anyway, is similar to egg mayonnaise: rich and savoury, with the smell being something akin to a mild blue cheese, with a subtle touch of ammonia. They can be served as a side dish or as an ingredient in other dishes, adding an unctuous savouriness and complexity.

Desserts: Bao Bing & Douhua

Bao Bing with brown sugar syrup, and hiding a sweet red bean pudding underneath. Guilt-free… almost.

The Taiwanese like sugar. Having said that, you’ll likely find some savoury dishes sweet, and some desserts not as sweet as you expected. The use of sweet potato, taro, and different types of beans certainly results in some interesting combinations; however, they have the potential to make you believe the sweet treat you’re devouring may actually be healthy. In most cases it isn’t, due to the aforementioned sugar.

Shaved ice, also known as Bao Bing, is a very popular dessert. Extremely versatile, it’s essentially finely shaved ice, taking on the consistency of snow, topped with almost anything and everything: fruit, syrups, sauces, beans, nuts, mochi, and anything else you can fit in the bowl. Taiwan has specific dessert bars where you can order Bao Bing; you’ll be asked by the server which toppings you would like from a wide selection laid out on display. Refreshing, especially in the stinking hot summers, they are fun to construct and eat. Try as many of the toppings as possible (not in the same bowl!) and you’ll soon arrive at a combination you’ll order time and time again.

Douhua, from a top spot in Taipei, with syrup, peanut brittle, and ice - MATA Tofu Pudding No. 63號, Yongkang St, Da’an District, Taipei City, Taiwan 106

Douhua is coagulated soy milk, similar to silken tofu, usually served with syrups and toppings. Brown sugar syrup is standard, often including ginger, perfect for those cooler winter months, and garnished with crushed nuts and tapioca pearls. I used to eat the basic version of this dessert, just tofu and ginger syrup, a few times a week when I lived in Hong Kong, and regularly used to take visiting friends to one specific tofu bar in Causeway Bay. In texture it’s not too different from a very smooth set custard and, with the variety of toppings, you’ll easily find flavours that work for you. It’s certainly popular with the locals.

Beef Noodle Soup

Beef noodle soup, in all its forms!

Beef noodle soup is synonymous with Taiwan and it’s no surprise it can be found everywhere, all the time. 24-hour joints are selling beef noodle soup and there are always locals eating it. Examples can be found at every level: cheap and cheerful, albeit sometimes bland and uninteresting, and at the other end of the spectrum there are beef noodle soups that will change your life.

The meat can be stewed with the broth, which is usually simmering away for hours, developing layers of umami one can only achieve with patience. Tender, almost melting, cuts of beef are often joined by tripe and tendon. I quite like tripe and often order it but, please, if you haven’t tried tendon before, do it; especially in a beef noodle soup! A choice of noodles is sometimes offered and, should you want to pimp your bowl, a selection of pickled greens and other spicy pastes and sauces can be found on the table. I could quite easily eat a bowl of Taiwanese beef noodle soup every day. I won’t, but I could.

dumplings: Meat & Rice

Left: Zongzi with chestnut, beans and mushrooms, wrapped in a bamboo leaf.
Right: Pork dumplings - Fu Ji Steamed Dumplings 福記肉羹蒸餃 No. 118, Zhongzheng Rd, Hengchun Township

We all love a dumpling, don’t we? Present in most cultures, the humble dumpling harks back to a simpler time. Whether it’s the glutinous rice variety, called Zongzi in Chinese, or other styles such as Wonton, Jiaozi and Xiaolongbao, these dumplings are unmistakably Chinese and absolutely delicious. Vegetarians and vegans need to be aware of the ingredients but it’s easy to find very tasty examples that don’t include meat.

Zongzi, steamed in a bamboo leaf and loaded with various fillings, are a great morning snack and can be found at many markets and breakfast restaurants. The sticky, glutinous rice absorbs flavours so well, and the addition of nuts, beans, and mushrooms ensures that umami hit. I used to eat them regularly when I lived in Hong Kong; they are quite filling and will keep you fuelled until your next foodie stop!

The dumplings pictured on the right are from an unassuming, yet very popular, dumpling stall in the small town of Hengchun, southern Taiwan. Too busy to ignore, I took my seat and was then treated to some of the best dumplings I’ve ever eaten. Densely packed, with a pork and green onion filling, the fresh, thin casing almost bursting at the seams, somehow containing the tender, juicy meat and the delicious soup inside; accompanied by a chilli and garlic soy dipping sauce, giving each mouthful a salty, sharp bite. Seek out good dumplings, because the difference is enormous.

Taiwanese breakfast: Shaobing & Danbing

Danbing: essentially a rolled egg pancake, and Shaobing: unleavened Chinese flatbread with sesame seeds.

From as early as 5am, you’ll certainly come across these items being sold, and sold out. Taiwanese breakfasts have an identity, which I love. Iconic in their simplicity, most Taiwanese breakfasts can be described as carbs, egg, and soy milk. I would often order shaobing (unleavened, layered Chinese flatbread, sprinkled with sesame seeds) with an egg inside, accompanied by a fresh rice or soy milk. It’s the perfect quick breakfast and even though it seems simple and basic, you’ll wonder how it tastes as good as it does.

Danbing is essentially a fried egg, rolled inside a pancake, but people often add vegetables or meats which are also rolled inside, creating a little breakfast burrito and served usually with chilli soy dipping sauce. They’re worth trying because they’re very popular and widely available. The best examples I tried had a crispy exterior but retained a gooey yolk. My advice would be to eat them with the chilli soy sauce; otherwise they taste exactly as they sound: a fried egg, rolled inside a pancake.

Chinese Herbal soup

Chinese herbal soup with duck, fish, and pork ribs; a delicious way to boost the immune system!

This one will divide people because Chinese herbal soup, sought after for its medicinal properties, is an acquired taste. Well, I acquired that taste and then some! Night markets and specialised soup shops are the best place to find them, and there are variations, not just in the herbs and other ingredients but also the protein; I’ve had vegetarian versions, and soups with duck, fish, and pork ribs. Ginseng is also a popular ingredient and often turned into herbal soups with chicken. Chinese herbal soups may also include ingredients such as red dates, goji berries, ginger, angelica root, liquorice root, and other roots used in Chinese medicine. The flavour of the soups change depending on the recipes of the vendor; however, these soups have usually been simmering for hours and, even though they’re light and thin, they have bags of flavour: slightly sweet, savoury, bitter, some vegetal notes, aniseed, and a warming spice. I sound like I’m describing a fine wine but, honestly, these soups are complex and interesting, and good for you, apparently.

Tofu: stinky, SOFT & FRIED

Top: Silken tofu, soy sauce, sesame dressing, bonito flakes, century egg.
Bottom: Stinky tofu, from the famous Lin’s Stinky Tofu - No. 130號, Zhengqi Rd, Taitung City, Taitung County

Tofu is extremely popular in Taiwan. If I’m honest, it baffles me that some people don’t like tofu. I really enjoy eating tofu in all its forms. Yes, even stinky. In Taiwan there’s a wide variety of tofu dishes: fried, deep fried, braised, steamed, grilled, and as an ingredient in soup; it’s incredibly versatile. The quality of the tofu in Taiwan is typically very high, even in side dishes.

The top photo is of a side dish I had whilst riding through Taimali, southeast Taiwan. It’s texture was about as close to perfect as I can describe. Just firm enough to hold its shape, it was like eating a savoury soybean panna cotta, and with the rich, almost mayonnaise-like century egg, soy sauce and sesame dressing, and bonito flakes, it’s enough to change the mind of any tofu non-believer.

In my opinion, stinky tofu isn’t as bad as the name suggests. It’s tofu that’s been marinated and fermented, developing a pungent and very recognisable smell: sharp, almost ammonia-like, damp, vegetal, and cheesey. Readily available at many night markets, it’s become synonymous with Taiwanese street food. The stinky tofu pictured here, served in a bag, is the best stinky tofu I’ve ever eaten. Sold through a hole in the wall, it was crispy on the outside, soft and creamy in the centre, and had a mild, more subtle flavour than its odour suggested. If you like strong blue cheese, get stuck in!

roast meats: Duck, Goose & Pig

Left: A Cheng Goose Meat - No. 85號, Jianguo Rd, Hualien City Top Right: Fujian Street Sausage - No. 205號, Fujian St, Hualien City Bottom Right: 夥計鴨肉冬粉 - No. 35, Zhongshan Rd, Hengchun

Roast meats are one of Chinese cuisine’s most revered exports; whether it’s duck, goose, pig or any other animal, the aromas, flavours and textures are defining and distinctive.

Often being sweet and savoury from the preparation, involving soy sauce, sugar and spices, and with delicate yet crispy skin, it’s easy to understand why Chinese roast meats have made an impression around the globe. Visiting restaurants specialising in roast meats is also a fantastic opportunity to try less-common cuts of meat, offal and animal organs. Pictured here are well-known spots in Hualien and Hengchun, and include heart, gizzards, liver, blood cake and tongue. The dishes were delicious, although a couple of elements were mostly texture as opposed to flavour! I like eating offal and organs but I realise they’re not everyone’s cup of tea. I’ve always focused on the local food traditions and culture, and if the locals enjoy them, who am I to say otherwise? I do think if you’re comfortable eating meat, you probably should be comfortable trying the edible parts of an animal. Perhaps that can of worms is better left closed for a future article.

More must-Try Taiwanese Dishes: Buffets & Bubble tea

These buffet-style meals may not look like much but, trust me, they’re always tasty and never expensive!

If you’re anything like me, you’ll want to try a few different versions of the iconic dishes I’ve mentioned; this will ensure you know a good one from an average one. I am aware that not everyone has months to spend eating and drinking their way around Taiwan, so this doesn’t leave much room for anything else… Unless you eat 6-8 meals a day! I won’t tell anyone if you don’t.

With that in mind, I encourage you to visit cheap, working-class canteens; offering a buffet-style experience, they’re a hive of activity, and a wonderful environment to try numerous traditional Taiwanese foods. These restaurants may be self-service but there will be staff, usually a few Aunties, topping up the various dishes, serving rice and noodles, and taking payment. I’ve been to some restaurants where there are more than 20 dishes to choose from: delicious meat and fish, vegetables many ways, eggs and omelettes, and there’s often a complimentary soup, too! Typically a person might choose servings of three or four different dishes, a portion of rice, and a soup, and you simply pay for whatever you’ve chosen. Chopsticks and napkins are on the table. Thanks very much.

Slurping a bubble tea before an 80km ride from Chishang to Guangfu.

Last but not least, it’s Bubble Tea. Perhaps the most recognisable and widespread item on this list, there’s no doubt Bubble (or Boba) Tea is quintessentially Taiwanese. Made from brewed tea, with the addition of sugar, milk, and tapioca pearls, the humble cup of tea is elevated to new heights. I wasn’t sold on them at first but now I really like them, even looking forward to my first bubble tea of the day when I was cycling around the island, framing the drink as an energy booster in order to justify the sugar content! You can choose from many different types of tea, as well as fruit tea, and then the size, sugar levels, type of milk or no milk, toppings, and temperature, many people opting for iced teas as well. My hot tip is start with zero sugar and work up. I’ve had bubble teas which have tasted far sweeter than the server said it would; usually if the person making the tea says it’s a “little sweet” you won’t wish it was any sweeter!

Taiwan’s climate and geographical location make it an ideal environment for tea growing, producing some of the world’s finest tea. Take part in tea ceremonies, tea tastings, and visit a tea plantation, drink all the Oolong you can. If you’ve ever wondered what all the fuss is about, Taiwan is the place that will answer that question!

Final Thoughts…

So, there you have it, Taiwan’s Top 12 Foods for Foodies, plus a couple of sneaky extras.

Taiwan has so much to offer and it’s worth visiting no matter your interests, but if ever there was a place one should explore through its cuisine, it’s Taiwan. Food is integral to Taiwanese culture and it’s evident when travelling there: the number of restaurants, the number of people eating in restaurants, the freshness of the ingredients, the diversity of the dishes, the level of cooking… it’s just that little bit better.

Budget-wise, it’s possible to spend $20 a day and eat well. If you’re able to spend less at local joints and night markets, that will allow for meals in high-end restaurants. You may have guessed but, for the record, there are many dishes I’ve left out of this list. Going through my food photos and selecting which meals made the cut was both exciting and heartbreaking, but reliving the meals, being transported back in time, and remembering just how good the food was put a huge smile on my face.

I hope this article inspires you to visit Taiwan. I had the most incredible time and cannot wait to return. I have referred to Taiwan as a ‘Foodie’s Paradise’ and I truly believe that. In my book, a ‘Foodie’ isn’t just someone who likes food; they obsess over food, thinking about it all day, seeking it out, prioritising great food and good eating, perpetually curious, eating consciously, foodies are people who feel great joy from the experience of eating and drinking. If that sounds like you, then get to Taiwan… and send me photos!